Good Saint-Nectaires are rare.
Auvergne is the region with the highest number of PDO cheeses, a label that is highly prized by consumers, but which does not always guarantee a product’s craftsmanship, as industrial and farmhouse production sometimes share the same name.
We obviously offer a farmer’s cheese, which can be recognized by the green casein that distinguishes it from the red casein used in milk production. However, even as a farmhouse cheese, it has unfortunately lost much of its identity and character over the years, and finding pieces from talented producers has sometimes proved a challenge. But they do exist, and they create a cheese full of personality, a far cry from the insipid productions that are all too common.
A Saint-Nectaire worthy of the name must already have a wild appearance, covered with Mucor that rises up in an ash-gray down. Wiped dry, it eventually gives way to an irregular crust that smells of damp straw and cellar. The light beige paste has few openings and often overflows with generous cream. On the palate, notes of undergrowth, mushrooms and humus. All these earthy touches pay tribute to a cheese that needs a little time and care in the cellar to express them.